Boyer-Martenot· Meursault

Charmes, Genevrières, Perrières, Boyer-Martenot owns a piece of all three of Meursault's great premier crus, and that line on the map is reason enough to pay attention. Vincent Boyer is the third generation here, and he tends some genuinely venerable vines: the Perrières dates to 1960, the Charmes to 1965.

What I admire is how legible the wines are. The Perrières gives flint and white peach, the Genevrières a chalkier grip, the Charmes more flesh, each climat speaking in its own register, which is exactly what you want from a grower who lets the place do the talking. Oak is kept to around fifteen percent, never enough to blur the distinctions.

This is classical white Burgundy made without affectation, and the 2021s reward those who like a cooler, tauter hand. I import Boyer-Martenot as a benchmark Meursault, the standard against which I measure the village.