Chavy-Chouet· Meursault

The wine I always reach for here is the Clos de Corvées de Citeaux, a monopole that Chavy-Chouet holds entirely to itself, planted back in 1955. A vineyard no one else can bottle, worked by Romaric Chavy from vines this old, is the sort of thing that pins a domaine to its place.

Romaric is the third generation, and across eleven hectares he balances the Meursault home base with parcels reaching into Puligny. The house style is generous but never blowsy, almond and citrus oil framed by a chalky finish, oak held in the middle teens to low twenties so the fruit keeps the upper hand.

The Clos de Corvées 2022 is the finest I have tasted from that vineyard, and the cooler Puligny Enseignères shows the nerve I prize in an off-year. I carry Chavy-Chouet for the monopole above all, singular ground, honestly farmed.