Chateau Margaux· Margaux

Of the five First Growths, Margaux is the one people reach for when they want to describe perfume. Corinne Mentzelopoulos has presided over a sustained golden run on this estate, and the Grand Vin, entirely new oak, fine gravel over clay-limestone, parcels worked in part by horse, remains the most aromatic and lace-like wine at the top of the 1855 classification.

I will be candid about supply. Our 2020 allocation was redirected to Asia, and we did not receive the Grand Vin that year. With the First Growths, demand decides where the wine goes, and Margaux is among the most spoken-for of all.

When I can place it, I place it carefully. This is not a wine I sell to anyone who asks, it is a wine I match to a cellar that deserves it.