A vertical in Montalcino.

I spent two days in Montalcino in October 2023, tasting verticals at three estates: Cerbaiona, La Serena, and Giodo. The purpose was to understand which vintages I should be holding and which I should be selling.

Cerbaiona first. Nora Venturini Cerbi opened six vintages from 2010 to 2019 at a wooden table in her cellar. The 2010 was fully resolved: transparent ruby, dried roses, tea, and iron. The 2015 was still tight. The 2019, from barrel, was dark and closed. Nora said the 2010 was her favorite. I agreed.

La Serena second. Luca Mantengoli poured the 2012 through 2019 in a room above the cantina. The 2012 was soft and broad, past its peak. The 2015 was concentrated and balanced. The 2016 was the surprise: austere, mineral, with a length that the 2015 did not have. Luca said the 2016 was underrated because it followed the 2015. He is correct.

Giodo last. Carlo Ferrini's Brunello project on the south face of Montalcino, at lower elevation, warmer. The wines are riper, darker, more immediately appealing. The 2019 from barrel was the ripest Brunello I tasted on the trip. Carlo said it would be approachable at five years. He is probably right, but I will recommend holding it longer.

The lesson from the vertical is that vintage variation in Montalcino is real and meaningful. The difference between 2015 and 2016 is not marginal. Clients who ask me which Brunello to buy always get the same answer: "Which vintage, and how long will you wait?"